These are a direct replacement for the standard bottom arms and will add 1 1/2º of negative camber to whatever the car has as standard – quoted by the manufacturers as being 1º positive, ±1º.

If the car has 1º positive, fitting the negative camber arms will give 1/2º camber. Measuring what the car has with standard arms will help determine what camber setting will be achieved by using C-AJJ3364.

Negative camber helps reduce under steer, thus improving the car’s cornering performance. Altering the car’s ride height also alters the camber angle and so needs setting before considering the fitment of C-AJJ3364 – lowering the car adds negative camber, raising it adds positive camber.

Excessive negative camber will....

IMPORTANT NOTE
The use of very stiff or hard tie rod bushes on both side of the subframe bracket is most definitely NOT recommended.

Use the hard poly bush (often marked Minispares) on the outside only and the soft rubber bush on the inner side. This is to prevent the tie rod end shearing off through over-stressing when tightening up the retaining nut to achieve the required seating of the retaining washer against the step on the tie...

TOOL11 is a supremely simple device to use, essentially an oversized vernier calliper.

Although a billiard table like surface is not needed, it is sensible to have the car on something like level ground without any of the wheels in dips or on lumps. Set the steering straight ahead and roll the vehicle back and forth a couple of times to settle the suspension. Resting the gauge on the ground in front of the vehicle with the arms at each end elevated, set the gauge to suit vehicle track width by releasing the two clamp bolts and sliding the two halves apart/together until the desired position is achieved, positioning the measuring tips at half overall wheel/tyre height (i.e. a line drawn horizontally through the hub centre to intersect the wheel/tyre outer edges) on either the wheel rim or tyre wall then pinch... Read more

Fitting these brackets will add approximately 1.5 degrees of negative camber to whatever the current setting is, THEY DO NOT give 1.5 degrees of camber. The factory standard settings are quoted as 0.5-2.5 degrees.

After fitment it is imperitive to get the geometry checked, particularly the tracking, The ... Read more

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This kit is intended for all hydrolastic minis, although it has been fitted on to dry suspension cars to give improved handling characteristics during motor sport events. Check all clearances of brake pipes and hoses and relocate if necessary. On dry suspension radius arms there is no hole for the bump stop bracket. Read more

The crux of the problem is the suggestion that fitting Hi-Los (or some such) will afford you the convenience of winching the ride height up when carrying a larger than normal load

I have been fielding a lot of questions re raising and lowering Minis, mainly from our foreign brethren. The increase in exported Minis to farther shores has revitalized interest in our precious Mini, indeed some new owners have rarely seen one of them and are delighted by it's 'cutesy' character, unbelievable road-holding and the discovery of the plethora of (relatively) cheap, readily available spares and accessories.

One of the first 'tuning tweaks' applied is dumping the car in the weeds. The Internet has also played its part in increasing interest in the Mini. It also provides near-direct links from the beginner ('newbie') or first time owner with those who have extensive knowledge and experience in dealing with our favourite little car. Read more

King Pin Inclination (KPI) - the angle is described by a line drawn down through the top and bottom ball-joint (swivel pin) centres and vertical viewed from the front. Extended to ground level, the distance from here to the wheel/tyre... Read more

It is baffling to see so many companies advertising mini suspension geometry parts in kits that are a waste of time as they rarely complete the job on either the front or the rear. Read more

Suspension - Basic priorities for improved suspension performance. Having studied the 'Suspension - Terminology' article you should now have a ‘job description’ understanding of previously possibly un-comprehended words associated with suspension control. Now - what to do with it? The first thing we need to establish is an order of priority before distributing hard-earned 'beer vouchers' in all directions. Fortunately, this is a good deal less complicated than is generally believed. Despite the five main factors that control the front suspension geometry – kingpin inclination, caster angle, camber angle, track, and bump-steer – we are only really able to alter three of those easily. King-pin inclination is non-adjustable, as it’s a feature of where the swivel-pins are mounted on the hub at the factory. It will alter as other adjustments are made, but we can do nothing easily about correcting/optimising it independently, as these are fixed in position on the swivel hub. Read more