Modified to give maximum performance gain for cost. Combustion chambers, inlet and exhaust ports extensively re-worked. Stone-ground finish in ports promotes ultimate fuel atomisation. MSE3 - PRE 1992 unleaded Stage 2 (Road Rocket) large-bore head Part No Applications: MSE3, C-AEG544, C-AEG106, TAM2069, C-AJJ4037, C-AEA526, ADU4905 Inlet Valves 35.6mm(1.401") dia. Tuftrided EN214N s/steel P/No. C-AEG544 Exhaust Valves 29.5mm(1.161") dia. Tuftrided EN214N s/steel P/No. C-AEG106 Exhaust seats Latest type Beryllium-based for lead-free fuel P/No. TAM2069 Valve Guides Magnesium bronze P/No. C-AJJ4037 Valve Springs Nominal 180lb. Max actually valve lift 0.500" P/No. C-AEA526 Stem Seals Latest 'top-hat' design with tensioner springs (inlets) P/No. ADU4905 Chamber Volume Nominal 20cc Read more
Modified to give maximum performance gain for cost. Combustion chambers, inlet and exhaust ports extensively re-worked. Stone-ground finish in ports promotes ultimate fuel atomisation. MSE4 - POST 1992 unleaded stage 2 (Road Rocket) large-bore head Part No Applications: MSE4, C-AEG544, C-AEG106, TAM2069, C-AJJ4037, C-AEA526, ADU4905 Inlet Valves: 35.6mm(1.401") dia. Tuftrided EN214N s/steel P/No. C-AEG544 Exhaust Valves: 29.5mm(1.161") dia. Tuftrided EN214N s/steel P/No. C-AEG106 Exhaust seats: Latest type Beryllium-based for lead-free fuel P/No. TAM2069 Valve Guides: Magnesium bronze P/No. C-AEA526 Valve Springs: Nominal 180lb. Max actually valve lift 0.500" P/No. C-AJJ4037 Stem Seals: Latest 'top-hat' design with tensioner springs (inlets) P/No. ADU4905 Chamber Volume: Nominal 20cc Three-angle valve seats in head. Cooper S size valves with current maximum flow profiles and Tuftrided for durability/longevity when used with unleaded fuel (hence 'black' finish). Read more
Modified to give maximum performance gain for cost. Combustion chambers, inlet and exhaust ports extensively re-worked. Stone-ground finish in ports promotes ultimate fuel atomisation. MSE4 - POST 1992 unleaded stage 2 (Road Rocket) large-bore head Part No Applications: MSE4, C-AEG544, C-AEG106, TAM2069, C-AJJ4037, C-AEA526, ADU4905 Inlet Valves: 35.6mm(1.401") dia. Tuftrided EN214N s/steel P/No. C-AEG544 Exhaust Valves: 29.5mm(1.161") dia. Tuftrided EN214N s/steel P/No. C-AEG106 Exhaust seats: Latest type Beryllium-based for lead-free fuel P/No. TAM2069 Valve Guides: Magnesium bronze P/No. C-AEA526 Valve Springs: Nominal 180lb. Max actually valve lift 0.500" P/No. C-AJJ4037 Stem Seals: Latest 'top-hat' design with tensioner springs (inlets) P/No. ADU4905 Chamber Volume: Nominal 20cc Three-angle valve seats in head. Cooper S size valves with current maximum flow profiles and Tuftrided for durability/longevity when used with unleaded fuel (hence 'black' finish). Read more
Modified to give maximum performance gain for cost. Combustion chambers, inlet and exhaust ports extensively re-worked. Stone-ground finish in ports promotes ultimate fuel atomisation. Three-angle valve seats in head. Super-quality MG Metro valves modified to increase airflow. MSE6 - POST 1992 unleaded stage 2 (Road Rocket) large-bore head Part No Applications: MSE6, TAM1059, TAM1061, TAM2069, 12G1963, 12G1015, ADU4905 Inlet Valves: 35.6mm(1.401") dia. Original equipment type P/No. TAM1059 Exhaust Valves: 29.2mm(1.150") dia. Original equipment type P/No. TAM1061 Exhaust seats: Latest type Beryllium-based for lead-free fuel P/No. TAM2069 Valve Guides: AE Hepolite cast iron P/No. 12G1963 Valve Springs: Nominal 140lb. Max actual valve lift 0.400" P/No. 12G1015 Stem Seals : Latest 'top-hat' design with tensioner springs (inlets) P/No. ADU4905 Chamber Volume: Nominal 20cc Combustion chamber volume used to give slight static compression ratio increase over standard. Read more
Modified to give maximum performance gain for cost. Combustion chambers, inlet and exhaust ports extensively re-worked. Stone-ground finish in ports promotes ultimate fuel atomisation. Three-angle valve seats in head. Super-quality MG Metro valves modified to increase airflow. MSE6 - POST 1992 unleaded stage 2 (Road Rocket) large-bore head Part No Applications: MSE6, TAM1059, TAM1061, TAM2069, 12G1963, 12G1015, ADU4905 Inlet Valves: 35.6mm(1.401") dia. Original equipment type P/No. TAM1059 Exhaust Valves: 29.2mm(1.150") dia. Original equipment type P/No. TAM1061 Exhaust seats: Latest type Beryllium-based for lead-free fuel P/No. TAM2069 Valve Guides: AE Hepolite cast iron P/No. 12G1963 Valve Springs: Nominal 140lb. Max actual valve lift 0.400" P/No. 12G1015 Stem Seals : Latest 'top-hat' design with tensioner springs (inlets) P/No. ADU4905 Chamber Volume: Nominal 20cc Combustion chamber volume used to give slight static compression ratio increase over standard. Read more
This valve spring set has been developed to fit standard sized top caps, and cope with racing rpm, savage cam lobe opening rates and high valve lifts up to 0.520”. Most cylinder heads when modified for racing culminate in a fitted valve spring height of around 1.420” to 1.440”.
C-AEA527 DUAL VALVE SPRINGS FITTING INSTRUCTIONS
See bottom for useful part numbers.
However where possible, it is always advantageous to correct and match the valve spring heights (measured from the spring seat in the head to the underside of the spring retainer cap), as these will vary particularly where new valve seats are cut and the standard valve spring seats are left – some by as much as 0.050”! Read more
Material choices for guides are down to two distinct types - cast iron and bronze. Yes, cast iron. NOT steel as described in many adverts and by vendors. Never have been, never will be. These are as fitted to the various A-series cylinder heads as standard in all applications. Cast iron is used because it is a very dissimilar metal from any used in valve manufacture - important to eliminate galling that causes seizure of the valves in the guides - is softer, yet resilient enough to wear well. Bronze, on the other hand, is a very general description as there are a variety of 'bronzes' used by various folk. In days gone by, the bronze base type used was 'PB1' (also known as 'Navy Bronze') - a phosphor-bronze alloy that was very orange in colour, and very soft, used primarily in race engines. Unfortunately they wore out very quickly. Silicone-brass content bronze is probably the most popular now - often with a high aluminium or manganese content - is very yellow/gold in colour. Read more
The specter of 'unleaded fuel only' - instigated in UK on January 1st 1999 and seemingly from decades ago across the rest of the world - seems to be forcing more and more folk into frightened, panic orientated action. And Mini owners are featuring heavily in this. See bottom for useful part numbers. The situation not at all being helped by all sorts of conflicting information from 'leaned' sources, such as lead levels in humans has declined greatly since 1935 - despite the rapidly expanding ownership of petrol-burning vehicles. And benzene and toluene used in unleaded fuels are cancerous. Still, the powers that be are relentlessly forcing through the 'no heavy metals in fuel' bills, not being at all put off by such trivia. Not surprising bearing in mind the complete debacle on the catalytic converter front - the type decided on for world wide and universal use was developed and tested in California! Read more
The specter of 'unleaded fuel only' - instigated in UK on January 1st 1999 and seemingly from decades ago across the rest of the world - seems to be forcing more and more folk into frightened, panic orientated action. And Mini owners are featuring heavily in this. See bottom for useful part numbers. The situation not at all being helped by all sorts of conflicting information from 'leaned' sources, such as lead levels in humans has declined greatly since 1935 - despite the rapidly expanding ownership of petrol-burning vehicles. And benzene and toluene used in unleaded fuels are cancerous. Still, the powers that be are relentlessly forcing through the 'no heavy metals in fuel' bills, not being at all put off by such trivia. Not surprising bearing in mind the complete debacle on the catalytic converter front - the type decided on for world wide and universal use was developed and tested in California! Read more
'Modified to give maximum performance gain for cost. Combustion chambers, inlet and exhaust ports extensively re-worked. Stone-ground finish in ports promotes ultimate fuel atomisation. Terminology - VFM - Value For Money CR - Compression Ratio VE - Volumetric Efficiency Three-angle valve seats in head. Cooper S size valves with current maximum flow profiles and Tuftrided for durability/longevity when used with unleaded fuel (hence 'black' finish). Combustion chamber volume used to give slight static compression ratio increase over standard. Head mods employed greatly increase volumetric efficiency, boosting actual running (dynamic) compression ratio. Where much sportier cam profiles are used, a higher compression ratio is advised to achieve maximum power potential. Seek advice on what is required'. That is the opening paragraph from the fitting instructions sheet as supplied with the heads I do for Mini Spares. Read more
Whether you’re building a solid road performer or fire-breathing monster, the main goal is to improve air/fuel flow into the engine. The more you can get in, the more power you can get out. Cheapest chunk of power improvement comes from sorting the asthmatic manifolding and exhaust by applying a stage one kit. Then what? Considering the ‘get more in to get more out’ theme, the main restriction - all else being equal - is the valves and their behavior. How big they are, how efficient they are and how long they’re open for determines how much gets in with each gulp each bore/piston makes. Modified cylinder heads are popularly next, although it has to be said that although a well modified cylinder head will improve performance, the gain against cost is nowhere near that given by the ‘stage one’ kit application. A good stage one kit’s improvement verses cost is around £12.50 per 1 hp, a decent modified head typically £30 per 1hp - dependent on application. Hmm. Read more
During a discourse with the editorial staff at Mini Mag, it was decided the build feature presented an ideal opportunity to demonstrate just exactly what such an engine build is capable of in days where it's generally believed you have to have an all-singing, all-dancing 1380cc engine to have an enjoyable road burner - leaving those with very limited budgets a little depressed. During a discourse with the editorial staff at Mini Mag, it was decided the build feature presented an ideal opportunity to demonstrate just exactly what such an engine build is capable of in days where it's generally believed you have to have an all-singing, all-dancing 1380cc engine to have an enjoyable road burner - leaving those with very limited budgets a little depressed. So the idea was to finish the engine off using a relatively 'mild' specification to maximise drivability. The camshaft used was the fantastically versatile Swiftune Racing SW5 profile that provides drive from nowhere up to 7,000rpm - depending on the finished spec - with minimal hydrocarbons for emissions testing. Read more
This gasket was originally developed by Howley Racing way back in the mid eighties for what was then part of the factory Rover Group racing effort - the Group A Metro Turbo. C-STR1057 Group A Turbo head gasket The engines developed by Howley Racing were giving 220+bhp and 185lb ft running 16.4psi boost - quite a chunk of power in a car little bigger than a Mini! Despite 10" wide sticky slicks, the engine chirped the tyres in each upward gear change. Even more impressive when you consider this was still on it's single 1.75" HIF SU carb! All that was basically done was to take a standard production head gasket (the then all over silver TAM1521 - a great gasket it it's own right) and add a reinforced fire ring by over-lapping the existing one with an extra fold of metal.As a consequence the block needs to be machined to accept this gasket - rendering it useless for any other gasket fitment and any further over-bores (even to 73.5mm) unless a top-hat type liner was used. Read more
You can only use the MS72 adjustable brake regulator/bias valve with a front/rear split system. Definitely NOT the diagonal split type (for identification see 'Brakes - Rear brake bias adjustment'). These should have been 'X-ed' at birth. Makes the car handle very interestingly when the system only operates the diagonally opposed brakes. Scary stuff. Almost as much fun as when the rears only work on a front/rear split set-up - particularly as the PDWA is built into the master cylinder, and it still has to go through the FAM7821 pressure regulator valve! Damn near no braking on the rear. Either way - split system brakes are grossly inefficient when only using half the system as they are designed to do when a failure in the other half occurs. Quite frightening. To install the MS72 into a front/rear split system, it needs fitting into the rear feed line. Determining which this is can prove difficult if the system has already been tampered with or new replacement components fitted. Namely the master cylinder. Read more
To use or not to use - that is the question! BRAKES - Silicone brake fluid, to use or not to use - that is the question! Over more recent years I've had affair number of discussions on the use of silicone brake fluid as opposed to the more common type. I have to say some folk are vehemence in their belief that this stuff is 'the answer' to all kinds of brake maladies. Some time ago I contacted the two major brake specialists in this country (UK) to see what they had to say. Their reactions was as vehemence as those believers above. For what it's worth, I thought I'd spread the word according to the manufacturers - which happens to be similar to my limited experience with this 'liquid savior'. Some has heralded silicone-based brake fluid as being the last word in brake fluid, yet also brings a look of horror onto the faces of some. The classic car folk swear by it, particularly for vehicles that are not used much where brake seal failure can be experienced, and because it does not affect paintwork. Read more
When altering the front brake set-up away from the standard installation, it invariably alters the amount of rear brake bias needed to re-balance the cars brake balance.
The problems start occurring when folk graft alternative brake set-ups onto the front of their Minis. Be this 7.5" discs onto a previously drum-braked model, or going from current standard disc set-ups to one of the 4-pot varieties. The question then is 'what bore size rear wheel-cylinders do I need?' Unfortunately this isn't straightforward. Actually, that's not strictly true - more on this later. The pressure developed in the lines determines brake effectiveness - aside from disc size, pad type, co-efficient of friction, etc. that is. Understanding this may assist in choosing which way you should go for your particular set-up.
The basic facts you need to remember when dealing with brake pressures is how they are affected by the components you use. Read more
One day I'm going to have to try and assess just how it is that every now and again I get a 'run' on folks asking me about a specific problem. These problems exist all year round, year in, year out. And said problems crop up throughout the year. But - every now and then there's a blood-rush on a certain issue. Just recently that issue has been brake pipe ends. The bit that seals the pipe off against it's relevant fitting. There are two types of end - male and female. The male end is convex in shape, the female concave. The male end is used where a male pipe union (nut) is used on the brake pipe - that's a nut with an external thread - that will be screwed into a female fitting such as found in a wheel cylinder or master cylinder. The female end is used where a female pipe union (nut) is used on the brake pipe - a nut with an internal thread - and will be mated to a male fitting such as found on rear flexible brake pipes. Under no circumstances should you mix the too up as the brake pipes simply will not be properly and safely sealed off. Read more
The past few years have witnessed a great deal of activity in the brake-swapping department by Mini enthusiasts world wide. The reasons are quite diverse, ranging from fashion to necessity. Some fit vented Metro 4 pot brakes because it’s the ‘in’ thing to do, giving max pose value. Some believe it’s a performance improvement, usually misguided by a misinformed vendor hell bent on making a sale. Some do it because they’ve been given a Metro, and their Mini’s endowed with drum-brakes. Some fit 7.5” S-type brakes because they want to fit 10” wheels on their late-type Mini. Some fit them because the racing discipline they compete in won’t allow anything else. Some even fit the disastrous 7” Cooper-type because it’s all they have. Whatever the reason or type of disc-brake set-up used, the effectiveness of the installation can be honed to perfection by the type of brake pads fitted. Indeed, using the correct brake pad on a current set-up could out perform any intended swap, such is their influence. Read more
When looking to increase their cars performance, most folks immediately turn to considering higher engine power outputs. Because of this pre-occupation brakes tend to slide down the improvements priority list. However, they are far more important - being able to accelerate at warp speed to hyper-space in the twinkling of an eye is all very well, but disastrous if you can’t stop. You will make a very big hole in the scenery, and possibly end up wearing an wooden over-coat. Getting the braking system sorted out can help to make the car quicker, as you will be able to more confidently, therefore maximising speed in any given situation. Being one of those ‘sciences’ used in the automotive industry I hope to shed some light on the subject as it's another of those where many questions from confused and mislead folks that clog up my e-mail board. The advent of the Metro, and the brakes used on it has spawned a lot of activity in this direction. It was soon discovered that they could be applied to a Mini pretty easily, and the later vented ones opened up a new area to exploit. Read more
What you actually need for the disc/drum conversion is pretty straightforward. Disconnect the steering arms, top and bottom swivel-pins, CV joint, and flexible brake pipes at the subframe - that’s it. There are, however, a number of ancillaries to consider.
Basics
Basics Fitting discs designed for the Mini is easy enough. Just make sure you use CV gaiters for the disc-brake set-up - these have a different bellows shape to stop the gaiter rubbing the inside of the hub. The drum type will rub, then split, shedding grease all over the place. Moly grease is mighty mucky stuff to deal with and doesn't assist braking at all! A tip for racers - to stop the gaiters over-expanding when getting very hot and imitating the aforementioned, put either a decent sized split pin or (my favorite) a piece of very small bore pipe - as in the type supplied with WD40 aerosols, etc. - under the retaining strap on the drive shaft. This allows air to escape and return, as the gaiter gets hot then cools..
Read more