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Any dizzy can be set to get maximum power. No problem. Unfortunately that's only one spot on the whole power curve/rpm range. If the curve isn't right elsewhere, the engine will be either loosing power - in some instances by substantial amounts - or detonating its self into oblivion and a costly re-build.

Terminology -
Dizzy - Distributor
CR - Compression Ratio
VE - Volumetric Efficiency

Large-bore engines are less fussy about exacting ignition requirements than small-bores. The 1100-type being the most difficult to get right, with very particular requirements mid-range when tuned and worlds apart from large-bore curves. This should be remembered when swapping distributors from one engine to another. An 1100 dizzy in a 1275 will at run OK, but a 1275 in an 1100 can be courting disaster.

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When a known engine build formula is used, dizzies can be churned out with the relevant advance curve to suit - as in standard production engines. Terminology - Dizzy - Distributor When a known engine build formula is used, dizzies can be churned out with the relevant advance curve to suit - as in standard production engines. Reading the 'dizzy working basics' article defines what the dizzy does and how. It's pretty obvious then that any changes at all in the original engine specification is likely to require a different advance curve. This is where most folk fall down when completing the ‘build for power’, by assuming that an alternative dizzy from a sportier or similarly powered engine will do the trick.A simple illustration is folk's preoccupation with sticking a 'S' dizzy into anything tuned in the belief this is the way to go. It's not. It's likely to be as useful as the one you have. Read more

Any deviation away from the original standard engine specification, or where a dizzy from another source is used in the engine you have, the ignition timing will generally be different from that set by the manufacturer.

Terminology -
Dizzy - Distributor
TDC - Top Dead Centre
BTDC - Before Top Dead Centre
ATDC - After Top Dead Centre
CR - Compression Ratio

Tacho - Tachometer, rev counter (not to be confused with Mexican food delicacy!)
Vac - vacuum (pipe, unit, etc.)

Any deviation away from the original standard engine specification, or where a dizzy from another source is used in the engine you have, the ignition timing will generally be different from that set by the manufacturer.

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The specter of 'unleaded fuel only' - instigated in UK on January 1st 1999 and seemingly from decades ago across the rest of the world - seems to be forcing more and more folk into frightened, panic orientated action. And Mini owners are featuring heavily in this. Read more

The specter of 'unleaded fuel only' - instigated in UK on January 1st 1999 and seemingly from decades ago across the rest of the world - seems to be forcing more and more folk into frightened, panic orientated action. And Mini owners are featuring heavily in this. Read more

This is to help those floundering in an unknown sea of techno-babble and 'magical' cures… Part No Applications: C-AHT288, CAM150, CAM151, TAM1617, CAM4545, 51K1193, TAM1521, GEG300, C-AHT188, C-STR1057, A regular visitor to the message board, and something I am asked frequently about in my other incarnations for other technical media. Generally when something has gone badly wrong! Many folks have just as many ways of dealing with the following subjects - all can and will claim their way has worked for them for the proverbial millennia - so a few words as a basic reference and guide as I see them; we all know there are always exceptions to the rules. This is to help those floundering in an unknown sea of techno-babble and 'magical' cures… Read more

Whatever else owners do to their Minis by way of interior/exterior modifications or none at all, a very large proportion desire and search for an increase in engine performance.

See bottom for useful part numbers.

Now this may not be super-sonic speed-inducing power, it could just as well be for maximum economy. In either case, it's the engines volumetric efficiency (VE) under scrutiny - it's ability to breath in as much correctly proportioned air/fuel mix as possible in any given situation. Although the induction/exhaust system plays an important part, there are effectively two major factors that dictate performance increases - the camshaft and cylinder head. The induction and exhaust elements (stage one kits, exhaust systems, etc.) and camshafts are covered in various other articles in my 'Corner'. So here we'll have a look at cylinder heads and dispel some of the myths and legends surrounding them.

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A+ head castings - despite having the same 12G940 casting number - are considerably different in appearance, loosing the flat area behind the thermostat housing and around the rest of the rocker/head stud areas to a sculptured look - where these areas are replaced by a 'sunken' cast finish. The A+ castings were introduced with the appearance of the Metro in 1980, although some late 1275GTs (1979-on) had them fitted. Generally they are easily recognised by their colour - a putrid yellow on the small-bore castings and bright red on the large-bore ones, a paint finish that is VERY difficult to remove, even in a chemical tank. The MG

See bottom for useful part numbers.

Now this may not be super-sonic speed-inducing power, it could just as well be for maximum economy. In either case, it's the engines volumetric efficiency (VE) under scrutiny - it's ability to breath in as much correctly proportioned air/fuel mix as possible in any given situation. Read more

Since the reasonably recent publishing of a certain Mini tuning, performance and maintenance guide that has strangely coincided with a batch of new readers/devotees of a certain prolifically quoted 'bible' on A-series engine modifications - the subject of all things cylinder head have bounced into the fore once more.

Something I was heavily canvassed over at this years (2003) Mini in The Park event whilst doing duty as Mini 'agony aunt' and 'doctor'… In particular the subject of the combustion chamber was foremost in discussion since the aforementioned 'guide' exhibited a number of wildly different chamber profiles with very little in the way of supportive technical information. Now, I have considered the pros and cons of doing this missive. On one hand, I am not out to increase sales of said guide since I'm not one of its supporters in any way. On the other I am certainly not attempting to belittle the efforts of the featured company as they have long been at the forefront of performance A-series engines and components... Read more

The introduction of the Cooper S proved to be a testing time for the Mini’s systems, but conveniently provide a guideline as to what the standard cooling system was capable of - that used on the ‘S’ was marginal to say the least!

It wasn’t uncommon for many S’s to spew water from their overflow pipes when ever it was doing anything other than a steady 70 miles an hour, over-heating eventually caused through water loss. Perhaps some deductions can be made from the following…

There are a number of elements involved in controlling water temperature. Some confusion over what to sort first when over-heating occurs leads to wasted time and money, and possibly terminal engine damage. Maximum power is usually generated from A-series engines at 70 – 75 degrees C (160 to 170 degrees F). The main problem with this on a road car is the oil’s unlikely to get hot enough for maximum performance – the results outlined previously. Read more

I recently had one of my best mates to stay for a week. Don't get to see him very often, so when we're together we spend most of the time pontificating on all things A-series since he's a long-time Mini enthusiast too. Well, at least from a racing point of view. Anyway, of the various subjects covered one that prompted me into doing this little piece of verbiage was that of compression ratios (CR).

It's another for those subjects where folk can be heard waxing lyrical about their personal recommendations for CR levels, or stipulating hard and fast 'facts' about CR required for certain camshafts. And again, it's one of those generally misunderstood areas of engine tuning. So I'm going to try and cut through the haze a bit.

CRs are generally spoken about and quoted in reference to the 'static' ratio. That is a bunch of calculated or measured volumes calculated by means of an equation. Read more

Drive Strap Alignment If the pressure plate clutch plate friction face needs re-surfacing, get it machined to clean it up. Make sure the engineering company doing the job records the amount taken off as once done, the recorded amount needs removing from the tops of the 'horns' that stick up to ensure proper clamping force is achieved. If this is not done, clutch slip is inevitable. If using a pressure plate of unknown history, it is IMPERATIVE the clutch drive straps are set at the correct height. Many get this wrong and end up with a slipping clutch for some seemingly unfathomable reason. The following should also be carried out if the flywheel has been machined, or of unknown history also: Place the pressure plate 'horns' upper-most on something to hold it off of the work surface but not interfere with clutch plate or flywheel. Place the clutch plate in position, with the protruding primary gear spline boss on the underside facing the work surface Place the flywheel in position. Read more

This is one of those areas where there is more than one way to skin the cat - depending on who you speak to. This is the method I have used for eternity, which has been totally reliable and never had a problem with.

This only applies to non-Verto type clutches, as the Verto types are not adjustable. You just have to make sure all the operating linkage components are in good order.

First off, ensure your operating linkage is up to scratch. For details on this, see 'Engine transplants - Clutch and flywheel'.

Satisfied all is OK, you can proceed with setting the linkage up.

1 - Remove/disconnect clutch return spring.

2 - Undo throw-out nuts (15/16"AF nuts on outer end of plunger) lock nut and back nuts off away from clutch cover.

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Completing this change successfully, easily and neatly is pretty straightforward on a Mini. The alternator contains the regulator and cut out functions within it’s casing, so makes the regulator box used with a dynamo redundant.

Part No Applications: GEU205, GEU205MS, GEU207, GXE2297
However, it is useful to retain the box itself and it’s connectors. It acts as a terminal box to make the installation neat, avoiding the messy and awkward soldering/taping together bunches of wires. It also maintains a period look, plus makes reversal easy should this be needed in the future.

Disconnect the battery and remove the black regulator box from the car - taking care to make a note of or label each wire removed with it’s original terminal connection. Fit the alternator using the necessary rear support bracket (part no. 12G1053) as the alternator is shorter than the dynamo. The relevant belt (GCB10825) is also needed. Read more

In the forefront of Mini tuning, improving the over-all breathing capability of the very asthmatic A-series the air filter set-up is one that sees priority attention. All the widely available (and widely varying) stage one tuning kits include at the very least a replacement - and hopefully - high-flow air filter element to fit into the standard plastic case,

In the past few years (well, must be nearly 6 years by now!) since I got involved with writing for the specialist Mini Magazines I have been continually fighting with the problem of limited space. This has limited what I have been able to cover, both in subjects and in details. Up until recently (say the past year or so) I have been covering fairly broad topics in a fairly broad terms and detail. Basically trying to cover perhaps the most popular areas dabbled in by the Mini owning masses. Read more

Adverse Effects of Fitting Wide Wheels part numbers: C-AJJ3359 Terminology used: KPI - King Pin Inclination KPO - King Pin Offset LSD - Limited Slip Differential In the 'Suspension - Terminology' section, I covered what KPI is, as it is an ancient but still oft-used term despite being pretty redundant. Not that it isn't attendant in current cars - it has to be. It's just that the mass car manufacturers have settled the angle at which it is set down to a fairly universally used envelope, and there's nothing the individual can do to alter it without entirely re-fabricating the hubs of drastic surgery on the existing ones. So is, to all intents and purposes, fixed. Even the most technically advanced race teams can do little more than keep a wary eye on what it is doing when playing with suspension set-up. Read more

It is baffling to see so many companies advertising mini suspension geometry parts in kits that are a waste of time as they rarely complete the job on either the front or the rear. Read more

Concerned about fitting up-rating parts to injection engines? A short while ago I had several conversations via e-mail with folk abroad who were a little concerned about fitting up-rating parts to their injection engines - like one of the many 'GSi' tuning kits available. A rumour had been put about that fitting this kit caused engine damage. Closer questioning culminated in the rumour saying that the high lift (1.5 ratio) rockers were causing camshaft and valve/guide damage. You know me - I can't let things like this alone until I find out the root cause. After some more digging and goading, I believe I've found the problem.

Cam damage is usually caused by something amiss in the valve train - obviously. Since the engines concerned were as they came from Rover and had done many thousands of miles without issue, it had to be something to do with these kits. Read more