The world famous 5 speed close ratio gearbox design project was engineered for Mini Spares by David Hirons.

Using over 58 extra parts plus extensive machining the 5th gear is technically an overdrive gear 0.882-1 which equates to 3.037 when using 3.44 crown wheel and pinion.

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Any straight cut or helical competition gear set needs to be assembled by a trained mechanic and adhere to the following. Never fit lock tabs to the mainshaft and 1st motion shaft. Read more

Cold running and why tuned Minis simply quit running when pulling up.

Winter is coming, and with it various issues that affect Minis used throughout the year, no matter what the conditions.

This month's consideration is cold running and why a plethora of tuned Minis simply quit running when pulling up. Ignoring the few that are down to various other ailments, the main issue is just the cold weather. Those that suffer more ... Read more

To scatter or not to scatter, that is the question. This whole 'scattering' deal has befuddled many. The only real prose produced on the subject, and 'advice' handed out by many so-called 'specialists' tends to be somewhat tainted with large chunks of mysticism - inferring there's some kind of black art involved. The simple fact is the principle is very basic and easy; it's getting a cam with the right profile and figures applied to it that will actually work as a scatter profile that's the hard part. And this article does not mean I am all for scatter pattern cams. I will illuminate… We are all pretty much aware that the A-series is a real oddity, largely because of the siamese (shared) port work - cylinders 1 & 2 share an inlet port, cylinders 3 & 4 share an inlet port, and cylinders 2 & 3 share an exhaust port. Very weird compared to the more familiar head designs found on almost every other engine type that has one inlet and one exhaust port per cylinder. Read more

CAM TIMING - Mechanical Method Part No Applications: MD256, MD266, MD276, MD286, MD286SP, MD296, MD296SP, MD310SP, MD530, MDM266/KIT, MDM276KIT, MDM286KIT Equipment required - Stop plate - mechanical stop plate for setting TDC (see text). Set of feeler blades Terminology - TDC - Top Dead Centre, when piston is at highest point in bore BTDC - Before Top Dead Centre, before piston reaches highest point in bore ATDC - After Top Dead Centre, after piston has reached highest point in bore Accurate piston position indication is the first goal. You need to know exactly when piston one is at TDC. Without engineering measuring equipment a ‘stop plate’ is required. This you will either have to manufacture personally, or get one made. You need a piece of metal plate long enough to span the bore plus a couple of the head stud holes on either side - about 4.750" long by 1.375" wide will do the trick. Read more

Technical lowdown on shock absorbers,what to look for and what to buy Having introduced the fairly unknown Kayaba (KYB) range to the mini market in 1997 I am still amazed how gullible people are when buying cheap dampers. I have tried every type popular type available in the last 35 years, Armstrong including their adjustables, Girling, lockheed, Koni, Spax., Avo, Bilstein,Monroe,Boge,Gabriel and GMax The best to date were probably the very expensive special design Koni adjustables that we had built for the Monte Carlo rally. I also used the spare set on my 8 port car. You get what you pay for? For a non adjustable, Bilsteins rate highly although like the Koni specials are expensive, but you get what you pay for. The essence of a quality damper is to upgrade performance by using more sophisticated higher quality component build in the valving, piston, rod and seals etc along with a performance upgrade to improve the cars road holding. Read more

Glossary of terms used in the suspension on the mini. The Mini has consistently more than proven its capability in competition with very limited and cost-effective modifications based on the standard equipment fitted. Having first ensured the bodyshell (in reality little more than a complex bracket to hold suspension and driver securely in place) is well sorted out by removing all cruddy or rotten metalwork and into something like straight, square and strong we, maximising suspension stability and geometry pays dividends in the enjoyment that is driving a Mini. Understanding what the individual ingredients are helps in pursuing what you want from the experience. Smooth Mover Good, reliable, and consistent handling is dependent on a number of factors. At this stage, we’re concerned with clapped out or badly adjusted suspension components. Stiff, seized, partially seized or slack, sloppy, worn out suspension components will cause inconsistent, wayward, confusing and – more importantly - unsettling handling quirks that may take some time to track down. Read more

This bar has been developed to complement those road cars fitted with post 1990 rubber springs. Being the softest compound yet used on the Mini in an attempt to improve comfort, they allow more body-roll. This bar will not only reduce body-roll, but also slightly reduce dive under braking and squat under acceleration. The bar is aimed at the general daily driver. For more progressive drivers it is highly recommended that its used in conjunction with rear anti-roll bar kit C-AJJ4009. By testing various settings its possible to attain a very well balanced fast road car with improved steering response to compliment the other advantages of these bars. It is made to only fit the standard diameter/dimensioned tie-rods.

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