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Bonnet locking cable fitted as standard on all Twin point injection minis plus other models from 1992/3. This cable is in our kit GS130273 to fit all minis as an accessory.

Torpedo mirror for door mounting only-Not wing mounted.

Designed by Keith Dodd and manufactured by TEX

Convex glass makes objects look further away and usually fitted to the passengers side of the car this is the correct type of mi...

Mini Spares/Tex stainless steel/chrome door mirror from Tex were fitted to production minis from 1970 to 1980. These large 3" x 5.5" mirrors have also been used on many later models of the Mini, they look good and allow you to look great (rearwards) ...

Sliding window Mini models all must now use these black plastic locks for the windows. Our special kit includes a complete set of all the pieces: 4 latches, rubber seals, screws and chrome nuts.This kit is a great saving over buying all the parts ind...

This is a Non genuine L/H outer MK3 door skin.

It does not fit as well as the genuine CZH3301 but a good inexpensive replacement less mirror holes.

These chrome spring type clips are used to keep the bonnet and boot from coming open on competition cars and are available in black. Holes will be required in the fitting of these so if you do not want to drill your body panels these are not for you....

You can spend hours cutting out rust and patching holes, but why bother? These reproduction floor pans extend the full width with vertical flanges for easy installation, and fairly well represent the original stamping. They have added metal to includ...

non genuine small lip om front of Mk2/3 bonnet

this lip holds the upper grille moulding on Mk2 saloons right up to the last cars. Fitted to all our bonnets except van types and MK1 saloons it is usually found on any new bonnet and is tacked/...

E coated Mini Spares product. This non genuine dry suspension subframe has the metal prongs/hangers for rubber strap type mounts as fitted from 1990 cars. Supplied in superb looking E-coat finish for longevity, with strengthening brackets as per MPI ...

This early front (nose) panel will fit any Mini manufactured before 1976. It is probably easier to replace the entire panel than to repair a damaged one, especially if it's been hit more than once! Later Minis with rubber mounted subframes, use panel...

NON genuine 8"wide right hand outer sill for the van/pick up and estate range with MK3 square pressings. No genuine wide panel is available but see 14A9026/7 for 4" wide panel which actually covers only 2.5" of actual lower floor pan whereas the non ...

sportspack white type decal and badge kit

this kit includes 2 mini cooper laurels and pin stripes to cover bodyside,door and front wing as a car set with the bonnet stripes in white plus 2 winged stick on "Mini Cooper" badges for bonnet and ...

Not just a skin, but a complete MKI boot lid with inner skin. Lightweight, rustproof and well finished.

The MKI Mini door is distinctive with it's external door hinges and inside pocket and sliding windows. The single biggest problem with the doors is the tendency to rust particularly along the bottom edge. Replacement door skins is the easy answer. ...

Non genuine body side skin from door back and below window line for the right hand side

These small repair panels (MS24L for left, MS24R for right) are for the Mini boot floor area around the shock towers.

Non Genuine metal battery box. always going rusty owing to the location of where it is fitted. Requires welding in place and preferably painted or a protective coat. Remember to check if the battery cover, strap and clips need changing. Popular afte...

Non genuine rear valance closing panel L/H for saloon cars only,

similar to ALA8623 but less closing panel with 2 holes for mounting rear subframe and 14A6610 floor to wheel arch reinforcement.

This non genuine panel protects the underside of the windscreen valance under the left hand front wing section. Also fitted on the inner wing panel 14A8346 & 14A8347.

Non genuine chrome fluted trim - a silver version of the genuine GZF105A. They are hard enough to fit anyway but warming them up slowly to get supple is the best answer. Using a hairdrier on the sharp bends of the bodywork helps get the correct shape...